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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.